Friday, July 22, 2011

End of an era in Malaysia and Singapore

So after nearly 11 fantastic months in Asia, we started moving south to catch our flight from Singapore to Australia. On a high from our ‘tribal’ experiences in Laos, we traveled by bus to Thailand and entered Malaysia by train. Having no expectations or plans, we were pleasantly surprised at the richness and diversity of 'the penninsula'. The influence of ‘western’ modernization would certainly aid our transition into the developed world, but the spirit of Asia persisted and we enjoyed the ever relaxed nature of the locals. Oh, and the food! It was so good after 2 months in Cambodia and one month in Laos, where the food is, how can we say, somewhat samey!

Catching the train from Bangkok to Butterworth (north west peninsula), we then took the ferry to Penang. Known for it’s blend of Indian, Chinese and Malay food, we couldn’t wait to get stuck in, and that we did! Staying at Love Inn, on Love lane, we were half way between little India and China town, perfect. We indulged in samosas, tandoori chicken and spicy yet sweet noodles and soup. Walking through the streets of little India brought back so many fond memories of our 5 months spent in the subcontinent. We lapped up the colours, the smells and the bollywood music blasting from every street corner! This vibrancy brought the streets to life and the Chinese influence was also strong. Temples are dotted everywhere and wondering around was a like seeing a glimpse of India and China from the clean and much more ordered back seat of Malaysia. Although somewhat sanitised, it was great fun and a very pleasant surprise. It was also really good to see these quite different cultures living side by side interacting with each other.

Hearing about a small slice of paradise on the east coast, we caught an overnight bus to the Perhentian Islands. Kecil was our home for 10 days and truly was a picture-postcard island. We enjoyed relaxing on the white sand of a secluded beach we found, overlooking idyllic clear waters. The coast is famous for its coral and sea life, so in between lazing on the beach we went snorkeling with green turtles (spot Sam on the left), black tip sharks and numerous multi-coloured tropical fish. Dragging ourselves away, we returned to the mainland and visited Kota Bharu (dubbed the 'islamic city'), famous for it’s love for bird song which is recorded and played continuously from loudspeakers throughout the city!

The ‘jungle train’ took us south west through large stretches of tropical forest to Kuala Lumpur, an exciting city with its feet (and sky train) running madly towards the developed world. We managed to hunt out an old Malay quarter and were shocked by the stark contrast of old wooden houses being over shadowed by the huge Petronas Towers, one of the tallest buildings in the world. Perhaps nowhere in the world is more caught up in the midst of 'development'. Even on the jungle train, there new plasma TV screens distracting children (and adults) from the utterly stunning scenery with new release American films and advertisements. Of course, every country wants to 'get rich', but it was very striking here because of the really old and the really new standing right next door to one another. 

We really enjoyed KL though and found some really cool second-hand 80s stalls to stock up on warm clothes for the final leg of our trip. The street art, vibrant markets and great food also added to the feeling of being in a city on the move!
After 3 days in KL, we caught a bus to Singapore where we met up with a friend we had traveled briefly with in India and Nepal. CK acted as a fantastic tour guide, showing us the traditional areas, the skyscrapers and of course the ultra clean streets. Singaporians enjoy nothing more than shopping and eating, so we were taken to some great local restaurants to enjoy laksa soup, steamed chicken, bubble tea, and on our last night, frog porridge followed by durian fruit (so smelly it's even banned on the underground)!

Our time in Asia has been truly incredible and reflecting on it we realise how lucky we've been to have had such an amazing experience. The continent is ever surprising and full of life, spirit and colour. It welcomed us with open arms and we always felt safe and well looked after. We say goodbye though as we embark on the final leg of our journey. Australia and New Zealand, here we come!!!


As always, plenty more photos below and more to come on facebook :-)
 

The ferry to Penang gave us our first slights of Malaysia's high-rise buildings and skyscrapers!

Yes we really did stay at Love Inn, situated on Love Lane!!!

Our first proper Indian food in a long time was so very special :-)

It was also great to walk around 'little India' and reminisce

We met some colourful characters ...

Within moments of entering little India we'd been tikka'd!
There's also a very Chinese side to Penang

It was fascinating to see the Indian and Chinese cultures living so close to one another!

There was of course a Malay quarter of Penang as well, and this was new and exciting for us

Malay food was really, really delicious, the best of Indian and Chinese put together!


Penang in general had a lot of charm


This was our favourite Chinese shop name :-)

As ever, the pavements were used for anything other than walking :-)

The locals were really friendly


The streets were full of atmosphere


And we'll say it again, the food was amazing. Even the odd looking sweets!!!

As exciting as Penang was, we decided we needed some down-time and sunshine


We headed to the beautiful Perhentian Islands for 10 days of nothing!


We did fit in some snorkeling though


 We saw many multi-coloured fish (and turtles)


 And we swam with black-tipped sharks. Look very carefully and you can see us cowering in the top right!


The island was more touristy than our normal taste, but we loved the sun, sea and barbeque's on the beach :-)


Leaving the Perhentians was hard, but off we went to try and see more traditional Malay culture


Kota Bharu (the 'Islamic City') was good fun and the birdsong playing through loudspeakers was truly unique!

Some of the old houses were lovely and the Muslim way of life reminded us of wonderful Bangladesh



Arriving in Kuala Lumpur, we were struck by just how slick this Super-City really is!



The street-art ensured there was still an 'edge' though

The markets were still very traditional as well


Although massively multi-cultural, KL has kept it's muslim roots

The streets get pretty crowded!



We enjoyed loads and loads of tasty Indian food (that's one portion, no knife or fork provided)!



Arriving in Singapore, we were amazed by just how urbanised the entire city/country/island was

Our good friend and fantastic tour guide (CK) showed us the old parts though :-)

Strict law and order took a while to get used to, and this even extended to a ban on the smelliest fruit in the world on the underground!

Singapore is definitely business central

It's also all about shopping and eating :-)


After some persuasion from CK and his wife, we finally agreed to try frog porridge on our last night in Asia. It was actually very tasty - 'just like chicken'!!!

An so, we left Asia after the best part of an incredible year :-)

1 comment:

  1. Once again, a fantastic insight into your travels. It has been so wonderful to read, and see, your experiences this way and has made the time you have been away 'fly' past.
    Enjoy your last few weeks.
    Stay safe and well
    Much love, Mum and Dad xxx

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