We have just returned from our amazing time in Tibet, which is now the highlight of our trip so far. Despite having to join a tour group to enter Tibet (Chinese regulations ), we had a great time. The landscape is like nothing we've seen before, huge snow capped mountains and lunar visions as far as the eye can see. China now has a lot of control over Tibet (officially an 'autonomous' region of China), and the searching of all luggage on arrival at the border surpsied us somewhat. They flick through all books in case there is any reference to the 'cultrual revolution' or the exiled Dalai Lama. The Lonely Planet Guide is also banned, but Sam managed to smuggle this down his pants, phew!!
The first two days of our trip drove through vast open areas of farm land and small villages, which gave us a good idea of what the country must have been like 50 years ago (before the Chinese invaded).
The first few 'basic' guesthouses were an insight into local life, and a good way of getting to know the other people on the tour - the toilets (5 holes in the ground) were communal with no dividers!
We had a fantastic Tibetan guide who was very open about the 'revolution'. We were lucky in this respect as there are microphones hanging from buildings monitoring what people say and most guides tell you cleansed facts rather than personal accounts. Again we were surprised over the control China has when we were informed that Monks who have stayed in Tibet have had to sign a document denouncing the Dalai Lama and are not allowed to mention is name or have any photos of him. In fact, no one in Tibet can have a photo of the DL! It is illegal, with routine spontaneous house checks playing on the minds of locals. There are also police on rooftops in Lhasa whatching your every move!
Despite this, we managed to visit areas that were as close to 'real' Tibet as can be. One day we were even invited into a local Tibetan's home where we drank barley wine and ate local Tsampa with the family. Other highlights included Yamdrok lake (to the left), taking the pilgrimage walk with locals around Lhasa, and getting Sam to put his camera down for 5 minutes!!
We have posted a lot of photos on this blog because words cannot describe the scenary or give the people justice. We loved the place and have also been enjoying Nepal so will post a blog for our time there soon :-)
Plenty of photos below (and on facebook) ...
The long road to Tibet included ...
Yaks along the way!
Villages with the odd view :-)
Phenomenal mountain passes
Barley farming
Grubby but cute children :-)
And brilliant turquoise lakes (Yamdrok-Tso)
But don't worry, we also experienced some of the best toilets in the world ;-)
As we neared Lhasa, we saw some amazing monasteries on hilltops ...
And met lots of lovely people (this Tibetan lady invited 10 of us into her home for barley wine and Tsampa)!
Although we never saw a Tibetan flag or picture of the Dalai Lama, there were many examples of Tibetan passion.
Here, local Tibetans have covered a new electricity pylon with prayer flags!
The monasteries left standing are truely amazing (spot the monk on the veranda)!
And much of the scenary has been left untouched ...
Due to a few delays, we were upgraded when we got to Lhasa. Yes, that is a writing desk, and this building used to be the residence of a former tutor of the Dalai Lama!
Lhasa is swarming with Tibetans prostrating around the Barkhor Circuit
And the surrounding views aren't bad either!
We visited the only remaining nunnery in Lhasa (Ani Tsangkhung)
Climbed the legendary Potala Palace
And even went to what we thought was a disco, but turned out to be a 'cultural show'!
There is still an air of hostility around the city, with police monitoring everything - and getting touchy about the odd photograph!
But normal life continues, with yak butter on sale everywhere ...
And Yak meat of course - it makes a great chilli!
A few monasteries have maintained a sense of years gone by - the bowls hanging are what the monks eat out of!
And there's still plenty of Atmosphere from the butter lamps :-)
And scarey buddhist deities!
Some old traditions live on - sand mandalas like these take weeks to make, but are soon destroyed to remind the monks of the impermanence of life ...
Monks still practise the art of debating at Sera Monastery ...
And devotees everwhere use spinning prayer wheels to improve their karma
All in all, we met some really nice people and thoroughly enjoyed our tour of Tibet. There is a real influx of Chinese people, (this photo was taken outside the 'modern disco' where a buffet was provided to celebrate China day!!!), but we definately caught a glimpse of wonderful Tibet and can't wait to return again one day :-)
Bye for now, much love, Sam and Jo x
